fourth time - Sean Barnes and Alistair Pratt. Michael Grubb reported on the early development of the Quinta do Lorde marina and kindly allowed me to use his photographs, as did Michael Pocock and Peter Haden with pictures of the Islas Desertas and Ilhas Selvagens respectively.

My researches in the Canary Islands were made all the more enjoyable by the friendliness and help I received from many harbour and marina officials, notably Melanie Symes of Puerto Calero, Karin Rasmussen of Marina Rubicon, Elena Suarez-Rivero of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and the charming gentlemen responsible for tiny Caleta del Sebo on Lanzarote's Isla Graciosa, the thriving marina at San Sebastian de la Gomera and the commercial harbour of Santa Cruz de la Palma - soon to have its own, long-awaited facility for yachts.

Among the fellow sailors who responded to my queries regarding the Canary Islands with efforts well beyond the call of duty were Graham and Avril Johnson, whose photographs largely illustrate the pages about Santa Cruz de Tenerife (and who cycled up some steep hills in unseasonable weather to take them), Anne Fleck, who took time during a family holiday to visit and report on Los Gigantes, and Sue Thatcher, Suzanne and John Dyer, John and Sally Melling and Drummond Challis.

Despite my best efforts I was unable to improve on several of the photographs taken during my previous research visit to the islands when I was accompanied by Tom Hammon, to whom I also owe significant thanks for the use of his Falmouth basement in which this book was largely written. Finally, a particular 'thank you' to Derrick Wolstencroft, who took the trouble to write to me about developments in El Hierro - smallest of the Canary Islands and all too often overlooked - and then answered my resulting questions in considerable detail.

So finally to the Cape Verdes, a fascinating archipelago which has made almost unimaginable progress on all fronts since my first visit there in 1987. I was delighted to share my month in the islands with Sue Thatcher, whose practicality and irrepressible sense of humour came to our aid on more than one occasion (for all its progress, missing reservations, sudden power failures and the occasional difficult official will probably be par for the course in the Cape Verdes for some time to come). A number of her photographs illustrate this section.

While in Mindelo, Sao Vicente I was delighted to meet and compare notes with Kai Brossmann, founder of boatCV, - see page 291 - and author of Kapverdische Inseln : Der Nautische Revierfuhrer, the only cruising guide devoted solely to the islands. Slowly but surely the Cape Verdes are becoming a recognised stepping stone on the Atlantic circuit, and yachtsmen with problems - or those simply wanting security, fresh water and access to mains electricity - will bless the day that he arrived in the islands and decided to stay.

Back in the UK my thanks go, firstly, to the staff at Photo Express, Lymington to whom I trust my precious and irreplaceable films on my return from each research sortie, and secondly (and this is purely chronological) to my colleagues in the RCC Pilotage Foundation for being co-opted into proof reading at regrettably short notice. Ros Hogbin ploughed her way through the entire book, ably assisted on individual sections by John Lawson, David Darbyshire, Eve Bonham Cozens, Oliver Roome and Robin Leuchars. Martin Walker, having recently accepted the hot seat as Director of the Pilotage Foundation, did a last minute check, raising queries and spotting errors which had previously been overlooked, as well as making a number of suggestions which could only have come from a highly experienced yachtsman and skipper. I look forward to working with him.

Finally, as always, my thanks go Willie Wilson and all the staff at Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd. Imrays has just celebrated its one hundredth anniversary at a time when all too many specialist publishers have been gobbled up by the big names, and Willie and his team - Julia, Elaine, Jill, Ian, Chris and all the others - should congratulate themselves on their continued achievement. That they remain good humoured and apparently unflappable as their success inevitably increases their workload says much for them all. It is a privilege to be associated with such a company.

Anne Hammick Wrestler of Leigh Falmouth, Cornwall June 2004



A low, static cloud in an otherwise clear sky is often the first indication of an island landfall, in this case Faial in the Azores, seen from the northeast.

Key to symbols used on the plans

Brightly painted whaleboats at Cais do Pico, long a centre of Azorean whaling. Although sadly neglected since whaling effectively ceased, many of the elegant double-enders have now been restored and take pride of place in festivals and interisland regattas. Peter Price

English Portuguese Spanish harbourmaster/ diretor do porto/ capitán de

Puerto/ capitanía capitanía alfandega aduana port office

® customs

_ travel-lift

1 yacht club showers information post office anchorage gasoleo, gasolina gasoil, gasolina e portico grua firatoria clube náutico, club náutico clube naval duches informacoes agência do correio duchas information oficina de correos fundeadouro fondeadero

See Appendix III, page 323, for further Portuguese and Spanish terms commonly used in a marine context.

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