Companion way sill and frame
Before we tackle the sliding cover, let's finish around the vertical part of the companion-way opening in the after end of the house. Start with the sill. This is a piece of teak, locust, or dense oak, rabbeted as shown in Figure 16-lb, notched ai both ends to extend inches bevond
the opening. Fit vertical pieces, stepped on these sill ends. The after (outside) ones will reach exactly flush with the top of the rails; the forward ones will be shortened by the depth of t he beam-to-come at the after end of the si ¡ding cover. These vertical pieces will, of course, lap inward, past the inner faces of the rails and the house end, and thereby provide slots to confine the drop boards. You can, if you wish, make this front, back, slotted assembly out of one solid piece, rabbeted and grooved as necessary. Klegant, and more nearly meeting City Island standards. I salve mv conscience and justify mv
simple two-piece construction with the thought that it is cheap and easy to do in the first place, and easily repaired thereafter.
And now to the sliding cover itself, which we trust will stay watertight for the next 30 years and gl ide o'er the rails as smoothly as skis in wintertime. (And not a bad thought, at that; it's all in the wax, thcv saw) If you have accom-
panied me thus far without complaint, you are stuck with two beams, shaped to the crown of the housetop, flush with the tops of the rails, and jammed respectively against the forward face of the uppermost drop board and the like face of the darn. Your mind's eve will likely be
dazzled now with a vision ol gleaming mahogany or teak, laid lengthwise, with splines and glue between planks. If you choose to go this way, be sure the stock is bone dry, and be prepared to varnish it twice a year. (If. in spite of everything, it shrinks and opens up, you can always cover it with canvas.) You can do a more reliable and much less expensive job with cedar or white pine heartwood, glued edge to edge without splines, and painted as light a color as your eves can stand. You mav even consider
plywood—one piece, seamless, impregnable and everlasting—but. if you do, make your own carapace by gluing at least three layers of '/•j-inch ply over a crowned form. You'll have edges to seal, though, and plywood to look at. I'd rather go for tongue-and-groove boards, with canvas over. Observe, of course, that this cover extends past the after beam and over the figure 16-5b
Half lap in an "L"-shaped coaming
As a trim joint, as with decorative moldings, a miter can be kept closed with substantial fastenings set into structure behind the joint.
figure 16-5c Miter
This is not a structural joint. Mitered ends offer very little meat through which to drive strong (or crossed) fastenings figure 16 — 5f
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