Skeleton pattern (or template) fitted tightly into the area to be
Pattern scribed from the underside of the keel
(matches the top face of the slab beneath)
Outline of top face, from the keel pattern
Bottom face is pattern for the slab below.
Side bevel cut from section drawn into the loft plan, or dubbed directly on the boat
After edges parallel to receive the sternpost
Ultra-hard shoe piece
Bevel from the profile template
Ultra-hard shoe piece figure B-3
Shores, to ram the slabs together for fairing of the side bevel
Chain "crusher"-an effective device for exerting a crushing pull over a long or short distance
Levering is most effective when the blocks are placed as close to the chain as possible.
Deadwood bolts-bored and set from below tools, just as you will have to cut. the slopes at the scarf.
Make a skeleton pattern of the profile, as in Figure B-2. Make a pattern (to match the underside of the keel) for the top surface of the uppermost slab. Apply the skeleton pattern of the profile to the stock you've selected for this top piece of deadwood. This will give you the angle of the scarf cut as well as the outline of the piece in profile. Mark around the skeleton pattern on both sides of the stock, directly opposite from each other, and cut down to these lines. The easiest way to remove most of this wood is to make saw cuts crosswise and down to the line about 3 inches apart, and then split off the small blocks in between with a big chisel. Smooth it with an adze and plane, shove it forward and up the slope of the ballast, casting's scarf, and hang the after end by clamping it to the keel. Taper the sides, cautiously, and remove this first piece of deadwood to serve as a pattern for the top of the second slab. Keep this system going for all the deadwood pieces, fitting them one at a time, rough-tapering each, then going on to the next. Note, of course, that the fixed width at the after end (representing the siding of the rudder stock or rudderpost, as the case may be) moves progressively forward, according to the rake of the rudder, as you work downward. When you have filled the space down to but not including the 3-inch expend able shoe, ram the pile tight against the ballast casting (Figure B-3) and proceed to bore for the bolts. Treat this deadwood as if it. were part of the ballast, and fasten accordingly, with big-bolts, staggered off center and planned to be clear of future floor timbers. Score the sides of the pile with adze cuts, so that you can reassemble with precision. Take everything apart (including the keel of the casting), coat all contact surfaces with worm-repellent waterproofing sticky stuff, and put the deadwood back together with bolts (Figure B-4). I assume that the sternpost was in place before this final assembly. Make the cut, on a line parallel to the rudder stock, to take the forward face of the outer sternpost, rudderpost, or whatever you want to call it, which should properly extend from the propeller aperture, past the end of the keel, to the top of the 3-inch shoe. Fit, round off, and fasten the shoe (using 60-penny galvanized spikes, which follow a V^-inch drill, or 4-inch number 16 bronze screws, set way in— see Figure R-5). You can sandwich tarred felt between it. and the deadwood as a worm stopper, if you like. Fit the outer sternpost (with a groove for the rudder stock) and fasten it to the dead-wood, end of keel, and sternpost with bronze drifts, remembering to keep them clear of the two pairs of big gudgeon straps that are to come later—and proceed to adze and plane everything fair.
"You've done a real good job, boys... but who the hell put in that centerboard trunk?"
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