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Contents

INTRODUCTION 2

PART 1 — General Information

History 6 Politics 8

Economic Climate 9

Money and Consumer Prices 10

Trading 11

The Village 12

Native Art 14

Local Foods 19

Recipes 21

Tropical Diseases 22

Do's and Dont's in Papua New Guinea

Entering Papua New Guinea 26

Customs 26

Banks and Banking 26

Post Office 27

Communications 27

The Language 27

Air Transport 28

about Papua New Guinea

Other Transport 30 Jetties 30 Fuel 31 Gas 33 Water 33 Swimming 34 Fishing 36

Creatures of the Sea 38 Creatures of the Land 38 Earthquakes 40 Volcanoes 41 Tides 42 The Reefs 42 Weather 44 Anchorages 47 Soundings 48 Maps and Charts 48-50

PART 2 — Anchorages and Ports 55

AREA KEY MAP 56-57 KEY MAP A 58

AREA A. Samarai to Rossell Island (Louisiade Archipelago) 59 KEY MAP B 102

AREA B. Samarai to Port Moresby (South Coast of Papua New Guinea) 103

KEY MAP C 114

AREA C. Milne Bay to Astrolabe

(North Eastern Papua New Guinea Coast) 115

KEY MAP D 150

AREA D. Treasury Island to Southern Tip of New Ireland, including the entire East Coast of Bougainville Island and Buka Pass 151 KEY MAP E 180

AREA E. Put Put Harbour to Umboi Island, including Rabaul and all of the North Coast of New Britain 181 KEY MAP F 208

AREA F. North Coast of Papua New Guinea. Medang to Sepik River 209

LIST OF BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS

Village life 4

Horde of skulls 7

One of few protest marches 9

Fruit and vegetables for sale 12

An employee of the District Commissioner's Office 13

Canoe building 15

Ceremonially dressed New Britain native 16

Native art 19

Children of Papua New Guinea 25

Traditional gaff rigged sailing boat 29

Small boat jetty 31

A main wharf 32

Children have no fear of sharks 3 5

A two metre mackerel 37

Mount Munlulu 40

The Father — an active volcano 41

A good lookout 43

Alegrias in typical New Guinea calm 51

Old and new dress 5 2

Traditional dress 53

West Brumer Island 59

The tiny island of Samarai 62

View of Samarai 63

The 'pearl farm anchorage' 69

Native children with the author's son 69

Lillie and friend 70

Approaching the Engineer Group 74

Anchored off Tubetube Village 74

Hammock Island 76

Butchart Island 77

Tubetube Village 77

Panasesa Island 78

Nivani Island 80

Entering Bwagaoia Harbour, Misima Island 84

Bagie (Badie) 86

Approaching Pana Numara Island anchorage 88

Catholic Mission on Nimoa Island 92

Tagula Island 96

Royal Papuan Yacht Club 108

Anchorage off the yacht club in Port Moresby 110

The wreck of the Macdui 112

Port Moresby today 113

Entrance to Sewa Bay 117

Paipainina Point anchorage 118

Aproachig the wharf at Tufi 124

Cape Nelson 124

Mitre Rock 130

Cape Ward Hunt 130

Hideout Creek 132

The jetty at Morobe 132

The entrance to Mou and Eware Lagoons 13 3

Eware Village 133

Secure in Dreger 'inner' harbour 137

Beautiful Dreger Harbour 138

Fuel supply in Dreger Harbour 138

Entering Schneider Harbour 140

Peliata Point 144

The Treasury Group 152

Fakami Village church 152

The anchorage off Falami Village 154

Anti-aircraft gun found on Stirling Island 155

Main shipping wharf in Kieta Harbour 160

KobuanBay 162

Panguna, the Bougainville Copper Mine 162

Arawa, a brand new town 163

The town of Kieta 163

MabiriCape 164

Raua Harbour 166

Buka Passage 170

Bonis Plantation on Bougainville Island 170

The southern extremity of New Ireland 172

Cape St George 172

English and Irish Coves, New Ireland 174 Put Put (or Rugen) Harbour, east New Britain 176-177

Approaching Rabaul 182 Remarkable caves at Rabaul 184-185

View of Rabaul Harbour 186

LassulBay 188

Navigational aids, Gazelle Peninsula 188

Tavanatangir (or Powell) Harbour 189

Kimbe, New Britain 192

Walindi Plantation house 195

Ceremonial house, Garove Island 196

Jetty and shed, Garove Island 196

Ceremonial barge 197

Johann Albrecht Harbour 197

Intricately decorated 'haus' 198

The wharf at Peter Haven (Catholic Father inset) 200

German Catholic Mission, Unea Island 201

Unea Island views 207

Views of Madang Harbour 213

TownofMadang 214

Laing Island 220

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Ceremonial headdress, New Britain 17

Winter winds diagram 45

Method of anchoring 47

Misima Market 85

LIST OF COLOUR PLATES

Ceremonially dressed widower (i)

Beautiful anchorages (ii)

Visits aboard by local villagers (iii)

A rough sea along the north coast (iv)

Papua New Guinea children (iv)

A crowd pleaser (iv)

Dugout canoe (v)

Crystal clear water (v)

Commuting by dugout (vi)

Madang Harbour (vi)

Jetties at Morobe and Tufi (vii)

Traditional native dress (viii)

Alegrias in Morobe Harbour (viii)

INDEX

The following list shows all anchorages, ports and incidental coastal and strait descriptions in alphabetical order. Each section Key Map also shows the page number for individual descriptions. Anchorage maps will also be found beneath, opposite or close to the descriptions.

Abaga Gaheia Island, 88 Afati Bay, 126 Alotau, 115 Anewa Bay, 160 Arawa, 160 Astrolabe Bay, 146

Badie, 94

Bagaman Island, 88 Bagie, 94 Basilaki Bay, 70 Belasana Slipway, 66 Bison Bay, 216 Blanche Harbour, 151 Bogia, 218 Bostrem Bay, 216 Bougainville Island, 156, 158 Buka Passage, 168 Buka to New Ireland, 172 Butchart Island, 73 Bwagaoia Harbour, 82

Calvados Chain, 86 Cameron Plateau, 115 Cape Gloucester, 202 Cape Mabri, 160 Cape Nelson, 124

Cape Nelson to Morobe Harbour, 126 Cape Pomas Entrance, 187 Cape Ward Hunt, 128 China Strait, 65

Coast Samarai to Yule Island, 103

Commodore Bay, 192

Conflict Group to Deboyne Lagoon, 80

Daga Daga Bonalua Island, 66 Dampier Strait, 202 Dawangiona Jetty, 121 Deboyne Island, 80 Deboyne Lagoon, 80, 81 Deijei Radi Passage, 86 Dreger Harbour, 138

East Cape, 115

Engineer Group, 73

Engineer Group to Conflict Group, 76

English Cove, 174

Ettel Friedrich Harbour, 216

Falamai Village, 151 Fergusson Island, 121 Finsch Harbour, 140 Fortesque Strait, 68

Gabugabutau Island, 78 Galaiwa Bay, 121 Garove Island, 198, 200 Goodenough Island, 121 Goodenough Island to Cape Nelson, 122

Hati Lawi Harbour, 94 Hatzfeldthafen Harbour, 218 Hemoe Bay, 70 Hood Lagoon, 106 Hudumu Iwa Passage, 94 Hummock Island, 76 Huon Gulf, 137

Inus Point Anchorage, 166 IrishXove, 174

Island of Love (Trobriands), 122

Kabur River Anchorage, 146 Kar Kar Island, 216 Kelanoa Harbour, 144 Kiau Point Anchorage, 206 Kieta Harbour, 158 Kimbe, 192 Kiriwina Island, 122 Kobuan Bay, 159 Konstantin Harbour, 148 Kupiano, 104 Kurum, 216

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